Tuesday, 12 October 2021

Triton Jade II Repair Guide: Troubleshooting No Heat & Water Faults

⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING

Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.

  • ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.

  • VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.

  • LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.

  • DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.


In the video below i show the most common issues i find in Triton electric showers and how to test them. This shower was the Triton Jade.

Here we show the electric testing of the thermal cut out, the heater element the solenoid valve and any switches on a triton electric shower. You will need  multimeter set to resistance ohms setting to measure the resistance of each component.

Triton Jade II Component Testing:

  • Solenoid Valve: Expect a resistance of 3.4 kOhms to 4 kOhms. (Targeting 3.7 kOhms). If it reads 0 or OL, the shower won't let water through.

  • Thermal Cut-Out (TCO): Must read 0 ohms (continuity). A reading of OL means the TCO has "blown" to protect the heater tank from overheating.

  • Heating Element (8.5kW): Individual elements should be around 11-13 ohms.

  • Micro-Switches: When the pressure switch is manually engaged (with power OFF), the micro-switches should show 0 ohms.





A common issue with the Jade II is a slow drip from the bottom of the unit after use. Before assuming the PRD is blown, check the shower head for limescale. On budget Triton models, back-pressure from a blocked head can force water past the internal O-rings. Cleaning the head with white vinegar often fixes the 'leak' without needing a single spare part.


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