⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING
Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.
ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.
VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.
LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.
DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.
In the video below i show the most common fixes i find on electric showers.
Here we show the electric testing of the thermal cut out, the heater element the solenoid valve and any switches on a triton electric shower. You will need multimeter set to resistance ohms setting to measure the resistance of each component.
The "Is It Broken?" Checklist:
Solenoid Valve: Test for 3.4 kOhms to 4 kOhms. If the shower hums but no water flows, this is the #1 culprit.
TCO (Thermal Cut-Out): Must show 0 ohms. If it’s open (OL), the heater is dead.
Elements: Looking for 11-15 ohms per element.
PRD (Pressure Relief Device): Check the clear plastic ball/valve. If it's popped, your shower head is likely blocked with limescale.
The 'easiest' fix isn't inside the shower—it's the shower head. A 50% blocked shower head increases internal pressure by 200%, leading to blown PRDs and failed heater tanks. Soaking your shower head in white vinegar once a month is the single best way to extend the life of your Triton or Mira by years.
Buy main seals on Ebay UK here
Buy triton solenoids on Ebay UK here
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