⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING
Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.
ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.
VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.
LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.
DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.
Buy electric shower parts on Ebay UK here
Need a Multimeter for testing try on Ebay UK here
Mira Elite QT Component Testing:
Pump Motor (Rotor Segments): When rotating the motor by hand and testing segment-to-segment, readings should be consistent. You found some at 7.2 ohms and others at 10 or 11 ohms.
Expert Insight: Any variance greater than 1 to 2 ohms between segments suggests a failing armature. This causes the motor to run hot, lose torque, and produce the "excess noise" typical of a failing QT unit.
Solenoid Valve: Should read between 3.5 kOhms and 4.2 kOhms. If it's dead, the motor might run, but no water will enter the unit.
Heater Elements: As this is a 9.8kW unit, individual elements should be around 11 to 12 ohms. Parallel testing at the tank should be approx 5.5 to 6.5 ohms.
The 'Quiet Technology' in the Elite QT relies on high-quality bearings. If your motor is electrically sound (consistent ohms) but still incredibly noisy, the bearings have likely been compromised by a slow leak from the internal pump seal. Check for any sign of water staining or 'white powder' (limescale) around the motor shaft. If found, you need to replace the pump seal before the new motor fails too.
No comments:
Post a Comment