Thursday, 15 April 2021

Triton Cara Repair Guide: Fixing No Heat, Leaks & PRD Faults

 

⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING

Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.

  • ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.

  • VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.

  • LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.

  • DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.


Common Triton Cara Failures:

  • The PRD (Pressure Relief Device): If water is spraying from a small clear tube behind the shower head hose, the PRD has "blown." This is usually caused by a blocked shower head or a kinked hose.

    • Fix: Replace the PRD (approx. £5) and descale the shower head.

  • The TCO (Thermal Cut-Out): If the shower is completely cold but the lights are on, the TCO on top of the heater tank may have tripped.

    • Fix: Check continuity with a multimeter. It should be 0 ohms . If it’s Open Circuit (OL), replace it.

  • The Solenoid Valve: If the shower makes a 'click' but no water comes out, the solenoid coil has likely failed.

    • Fix: Resistance should be approx. 3.5k ohm to 4k ohm


Triton Cara electric shower fault finding repair , strip down


See the video below where I find out what is wrong with this shower, test all components and stripping it down 







I recommend keeping a spare PRD in the cupboard—it's a 5-minute fix that prevents a weekend without a shower.

Triton parts 





Buy these PRD from Ebay UK here 









Buy main seals on Ebay UK here  










Buy triton solenoids on Ebay UK here 





Q: Why is my Triton Cara running cold? 

A: The three most common causes are a tripped Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), a burnt-out microswitch on the selector assembly, or a failed heating element. Use a multimeter to test for continuity across these three components to identify the break in the circuit.





No comments:

Post a Comment