⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING
Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.
ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.
VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.
LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.
DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.
Here is a video of strip down and testing of an Ivory III electric shower, testing of the solenoid ,heater element, thermal cut outs 2 on this mode and the micro switches .
see video below
Need a Multimeter for testing try on Ebay UK here
Triton Ivory 3 Component Benchmarks
Before watching the strip-down video, note these expected multimeter readings for a healthy unit:
| Component | Test Type | Expected Reading |
| Heating Element (8.5kW) | Resistance ($\Omega$) | Approx. 13 ohm - 15 ohm per element |
| Solenoid Valve Coil | Resistance ($k\Omega$) | 3.5k Ohm - 4.5k ohm |
| Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) | Continuity | 0.00 (Beep) |
| Microswitches | Continuity | Beep when pressed, Open when released |
Video Summary: Triton Ivory 3 Diagnostic & Strip-Down
In this technical walkthrough, we perform a full internal teardown of the Triton Ivory 3 (III). This model is a classic workhorse of the Triton range, but its compact internal layout can be tricky for first-time DIY repairs.
We move beyond basic troubleshooting to show the physical removal and testing of the three "High-Failure" components: the Heater Canister, the Solenoid Valve, and the Pressure Switch Microswitches.
Key takeaway: Many "dead" Ivory 3 units are often suffering from simple mineral scaling on the pressure plunger or a £10 solenoid coil failure, rather than a total heater tank burnout.
Key Timestamps & Technical Highlights
0:00 – Safe Cover Removal: How to locate the hidden screws and safely detach the start/stop ribbon cable (if applicable) without snapping the delicate plastic housing.
2:15 – Multimeter Setup: Setting your meter to Kohm for the solenoid and Continuity for the TCO.
4:30 – Testing the Heating Elements: Probing the top of the copper canister. We look for a reading of approx. 14 Ohm on each element.
6:45 – Solenoid Valve Teardown: How to slide the coil off the valve body without disconnecting the main water feed.
8:10 – The "Microswitch Click": Checking the mechanical engagement of the pressure switch to ensure the heating elements are actually being told to turn on.
10:30 – Reassembly & "Dry Start" Prevention: The critical steps to take before turning the power back on to ensure you don't burn out your new elements instantly.
Since the Ivory 3 front cover and selector assemblies are now largely discontinued, testing your internal parts before they fail is critical. If your heater tank is dead, it’s often cheaper to buy a 'Fast-Fit' replacement than to hunt for rare legacy parts.
Triton parts
Buy these PRD from Ebay UK here
Buy main seals on Ebay UK here
Buy triton solenoids on Ebay UK here
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