⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING
Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.
ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.
VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.
LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.
DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.
To save money you can just replace the solenoid winding on the inlet control valve in an electric shower
Easy to do just lever off solenoid as far as it will go and then lightly tap the last piece out.
Why the Coil Fails (While the Valve Stays Good)
The solenoid valve consists of two parts: the mechanical brass/plastic body and the electrical copper coil.
90% of failures are electrical. The thin copper wire inside the coil snaps due to heat or age, creating an "Open Circuit."
10% of failures are mechanical (the internal plunger is jammed with grit).
The Test: If you hear a "hum" but no water flows, it might be mechanical. If the shower is silent when you press the button, the coil is dead. Replacing just the coil takes 5 minutes and avoids the need to disconnect any plumbing.
Technical Benchmarks for your Multimeter:
Healthy Coil: 3.5k - 4.5k ohm
Dead Coil: "OL" or "1" (Infinite resistance)
Need a Multimeter for testing try on Ebay UK here
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