⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING
Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.
ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.
VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.
LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.
DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.
Buy electric shower parts on Ebay UK here
Need a Multimeter for testing try on Ebay UK here
STOP: Before testing any internal components, read my [Safe Isolation Protocol] to avoid 240V shock.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fix |
| No Water Flow | Failed Solenoid Valve | Replace Solenoid Coil (£10) |
| Water is Freezing Cold | Blown TCO or Pressure Switch | Test TCO for continuity |
| Water is Lukewarm | One Heating Element Failed | Replace Heater Canister |
| Water Leaking from Bottom | Blown PRD (Overpressure) | Replace PRD & Clean Shower Head |
| Shower Trips the MCB/RCD | Element Shorting to Earth | Replace Heater Element |
| Water Goes Hot & Cold | Scaled-up Flow Valve | Descale or Replace Valve |
| No Power (No Lights) | Tripped Pull-Cord or MCB | Reset Breaker / Check Pull-Cord |
Electric showers are very popular and are very reliable but as some point in time you will have issues as with any type of electrical equipment that is used regularly.
Why does my shower run colder in winter
this is just down to the temperature of the incoming man water its a lot lower than in summer time and this will affect the temperature of the shower
Thermal cut out switches
This is designed to switch power of to the elements should the heat in the tank get too hot , when the temperature of the water has come down again the cut out should recover and allow the heating elements to energise again. If you get a cycling of hot then cold it could be a blocked shower head or kinked pipe, or it could be the actually heater malfunctioning.If the shower is completely cold then it could be the thermal cut out has not reset and will not allow the element to reenergise so you need to test the cut out with a multimeter see our post here.
Blocked shower head
Slow running , possible high temperature or cycling hot the cold as described above , you must clean a shower head regularly to ensure it has no blockage or flow restrictions
Kink or damaged shower hoses
This will affect the flow of water and consequently the heat of the water and may cause cycling of the water or just shut down the water when the thermal cut out operates you will need to replace the hose.
Limescale build up
can take away efficiency from the heater element and can eventually restricted flow, manufacturers do not recommend descaling heater tanks but replacing them instead but there are videos of people successfully doing this but manufacturers deem this too dangerous.
Pressure relief valve blowing
these are designed to blow and release pressure in the heater tank if the internal pressure in the shower becomes to too great either from head blockage or kinked pipe and thermal device does not turn element off quick enough and is a safety back up.
Triton parts
Buy these PRD from Ebay UK here
Buy main seals on Ebay UK here
Buy triton solenoids Ebay UK here
Mira solenoids on Ebay UK here
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