Saturday, 21 November 2020

Electric Shower No Water? How to Test & Replace the Solenoid Valve [2026]

⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING

Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.

  • ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.

  • VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.

  • LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.

  • DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.



If you hear your electric shower 'click' but no water comes out, the most likely culprit is a faulty solenoid valve. This small electromagnetic coil is what allows water into the unit. In this guide, I’ll show you the exact multimeter settings you need to test the coil for continuity and how to swap it out for a new one in under 15 minutes. Save £80+ on a plumber with this simple DIY fix


Buy electric shower parts on Ebay UK here


Need a Multimeter for testing try on Ebay UK here


Why Solenoid Valves Fail Solenoid valves usually fail when the internal coil burns out. Over time, the constant heating and cooling of the electrical winding cause it to go "open circuit," meaning electricity can no longer pass through to pull the plunger and let the water flow.

The 3.6k Ohm Rule

  • Good Coil: A healthy solenoid coil (like on most Triton or Mira units) should read approximately 3.5k to 4.0k Ohms.

  • Bad Coil: If your multimeter shows 'OL' (Open Loop) or 0.00, the coil is dead and must be replaced.



Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

So first remove the cover this one had 4 screws one in each corner 

Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

I am plugging the leads of multimeter onto the solenoid electrical connections it does not matter about which way around 

Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

The reading is 3.6k Ohms which is a good reading to low and too high and it would not open 
and short circuit would could fuse to trip.


Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

Undo both Posidrive screws that hold solenoid in place 

Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

Now pull the solenoid out of flow control housing 
its quite firm and its water tight with an o-ring 


Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

Electrical shower - Multimeter testing and then replacing the solenoid valve.

Its best to clean this gauze out as well while you are at it 


                                            


                          Here a video of the whole operation 



Step-by-Step Replacement

  1. Isolate Power & Water: Double-check the circuit is dead before removing the cover.

  2. Test the Coil: Set your multimeter to the 20k Ohm range and touch the probes to the terminals.

  3. Remove Screws: Use a Pozidrive screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the valve body.

  4. Pull & Clean: Pull the valve out of the flow housing. Pro Tip: While it's out, check the small mesh filter (gauze) for grit or limescale buildup.

  5. Install New Valve: Ensure the O-ring is seated correctly to prevent leaks.



Money Saving Tip:
I have a post about just replacing the coil to save money. Here








Buy triton solenoids on Ebay UK here 






Mira solenoids on Ebay UK here







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