⚠️ SAFETY FIRST: READ BEFORE STARTING
Working on electric showers is dangerous. You are dealing with a high-voltage appliance (240V) and water.
ISOLATE POWER: Always turn off the electricity at the main consumer unit (fuse box) and pull the isolation cord before removing the shower cover.
VERIFY DEAD: Use a voltage tester to ensure no power is reaching the unit.
LEGALS: In the UK, major electrical work in bathrooms is "Part P" regulated. If you are not a competent person or are unsure of these tests, stop and consult a Part P qualified electrician.
DISCLAIMER: You follow these guides at your own risk. This site and its authors are not liable for any injury, loss, or damage caused by your repairs.
No water coming from my electric shower.
this could be :
Water is not turn on at tap or isolation valve or they could be faulty.
The electricity could be offer so check circuit breaker or fuse.
The Solenoid could be faulty not allowing water to even enter the shower.
Flow control valve pressure switch or micro switches could be faulty.
Cold water coming from electric shower.
this could be :
This could be a faulty microswitch.
This could be a flow control valve problem.
The heating element could be failing to get hot.
Is there enough pressure and is it activating pressure switch and micro switch.
Too hot water coming from electric shower.
this could be :
The sower head could need cleaning out
Is there enough water flow
Is there a filter fitted and is it clean
Could be flow valve issue
Could be kinked or failing hose
Water leaking from electric shower body. ( do not turn on and isolate electricity)
this could be :
Damaged or faulty O-rings internally
Pressure relief valve may have operated
Pressure switch diaphragm may have failed
leaking components due to damage
Shower will not turn off
this could be :
On off micro switch could be faulty
On/off switch selector mechanism faulty
Faulty solenoid valve stick in on position
Poor flow
this could be :
Winter will reduce flow due to needing more time to heat
shower head blocked
heater element can blocked or needs cleaning
shower hose kinked or failing
Finding the Right Spares: Triton vs. Mira
Don't buy parts based on looks alone.
TCOs (Thermal Cut-Outs): Most Triton units use a 2-stage TCO (one for the tank, one for the outlet). Mira units often use a single, high-limit switch.
Solenoids: If your shower is silent when you press the button, you likely need a standard 2-way solenoid coil. Ensure the wattage matches your original unit.
PRDs: If your shower is leaking from the bottom, look for the "Burst Disc" type for older Tritons or the "Ball & Spring" type for newer models.
I only link to parts I have personally tested in the field.
Triton parts
Buy these PRD from Ebay UK here
Buy main seals on Ebay UK here
Buy triton solenoids on Ebay UK here
Aftermarket TCO thermal cut out units
No comments:
Post a Comment